![]() I have used all kinds of methods and was using a lubricated knife but the Roto-zip buzzed them out like a hot knife through butter. One use I found for the zip is that I have occasion to cut the sidewalls out of tires now and then. The case is nice but I think I may get a bigger tool box to hold both of them and all current and future accessories. I cannot put my other zip in the case with it so I will have to provide a home for the case and tool box both. So far the only problem is that big blow-molded case was made for the tool and that attachment along with the accessories for it. I put the attachment on it and it also ran perfectly. When I got it home I plugged it in and it ran perfectly. I took the approach that there was a good chance that the zip was possibly DOA but when the bidding stopped I had bought it for $12.50 which was about what I was willing to pay for the right angle attachment. None of them showed any signs of use including the Roto-zip itself. It was in a big case about the size of a small suitcase and had a right angle grinder attachment included as well as about 6 different disk for the attachment and some other small items. I bought another one a little bigger and newer at the last Amish consignment auction. I stuck it in a fair sized plastic tool box with a lift out tray for bits etc. I had just bought the basic tool (I forget which model) and I did buy the circle attachment for it not too long ago. I have had a Roto-zip for several years and use it a little. Click here for Sequel with Caddy and last five projects - Send me a PM w/Password Request from Download and I'll send YOU the password for the version on your computer. My objective was to experiment w/RotoZip and find out how to cut a straight line with it. 1/8" or larger kerf is a great disadvantage when compared to Jig/scroll saws or Band Saw. Subsequent models have speed control for router bits and accessories. Standard SS doesn't have the 30,000 rpms to move the 1/8" bits for cutting. When they are used in an under table router application you can see how much they move / vibrate when cutting and you will see how they break when abused. Bits will break if they aren't held steady. I used the RotoZip to build even larger projects than those listed, before I got the SS and after my RAS died. There is a big difference between RotoZip and Jig/Scroll Saws, both need help cutting straight lines. WorkBench to place the RotoZip, w/ Caddy to use as a Router. Worktable to place the RotoZip w/ Expanded Base and use as a Router, The hand held sabersaws work extremely well for making cuts in the house where a Skillsaw type saw would spew a lot of sawdust and endanger public relations. Of course the band saw handles most heavy cutting like that. I have a decent newish stand alone scroll saw that serves well. I have a number of SS jigsaws and need to sort them out eventually. The Amish had ran them with "air motors". I had bought most of them at Amish auctions for $2 to $5 each just to get the nice tool stands they were mounted on. They were old and heavy and I almost tossed them in the scrap iron pile but wanted to try to get them to somebody that could use them. I sold 4 or 5 old working jig/scroll saws in our yard sale last year for about $5 each. I used one for years as my only saw, worked for me! Very useful even now cutting everything from aluminum for screen enclosures to making jigsaw puzzles. You can pick up a used standalone scroll saw fairly cheap, also you might consider what I call a saber saw (some call them jigsaws) basically they are hand held that have the blade going up and down. Ed in Tampa wrote:While slower I think it will work but know this Rotozip do not give you a very clean splinter free hole.
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